Posted on Jun 29, 2022

If you feel like you've been seeing shea butter in everything over the last decade or so, you're not alone. However, just because some brands have only started to take note of this powerhouse ingredient relatively recently for all that it can do for the skin and hair doesn't mean it hasn't been a beauty staple for eons. In fact, the storied history of this emollient — which comes from the nut of the shea tree, common in sub-Saharan Africa — apparently dates all the way back to Cleopatra herself, who was said to always keep a jar of it on hand.

And though you may think, "OK, if it's good enough for Cleopatra, it's good enough for me," doing a little research before adding something new into your skin- or hair-care regimen is always a good idea. And if you're already using shea butter on the reg, it doesn't hurt to learn a little more about it. Who knows, you may find something out that will come in handy at a trivia night. In any case, we've got everything you need to know about this moisturizing ingredient just up ahead.

What is shea butter?

This multiuse, shape-shifting balm is ubiquitous on beauty product ingredient lists. But you can also cook with it, as some of the women who actually make the butter on cooperatives in Ghana (more on that later) do. But here in the west, shea butter is used almost exclusively as a beauty product. 

"It has always been a popular skin-care ingredient, but increasing consumer demand over the years has focused greater attention on quality and research into the specific chemical constituents responsible for shea butter's unique properties," says cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos.

We've already partially covered this, but just in case you haven't had your coffee yet, shea butter is a product made after two oily kernels are extracted from the seed of a shea tree. "The tree is primarily found in sub-Saharan Africa," Dobos explains. "Shea butter is a great skin-care emollient but it's also used in the food industry, specifically in the production of chocolate." 

What are the benefits of shea butter?

And as far as what kind of moisturizer it is? "It's a rich emollient that can help to heal cracked skin due to its vitamins A, E, and F content. It's not super greasy and provides a skin-softening effect," explains cosmetic chemist Ginger King. Shea butter possesses both anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which make it a highly sought-after ingredient in skin-care products. 

Tracy Evans, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Pacific Skin in San Francisco, California, confirms its efficacy in soothing skin, pointing to a 2012 study saying as much. According to a 2017 study published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, shea butter also makes hair more resistant to breakage, and has been found to create a "significant gloss increase." 

How do you use it?

You can use shea butter on its own, but it also plays well with other ingredients, according to Dobos. "It can be combined with heavier, more occlusive ingredients like waxes or silicones to heal extremely dry, rough skin," she explains. That's why you'll often see it advertised toward people with conditions like eczema, even though it works for nearly everyone. Plus, it's a great go-to in the winter months or for particularly dry areas, like the elbows, feet, and hands. 

Additionally, if you find you've been out in the sun and haven't been applying sunscreen as often as you should (hopefully, something that doesn't happen often), shea butter can help ease some of the pain a burn may bring. "People love the anti-inflammatory effect of this [ingredient] and often apply it after sun exposure," says King. Dr. Evans also points to the ingredient's anti-inflammatory properties, saying "[it] could likely soothe sensitive skin."

But, as we've mentioned, shea butter isn't just found in skin-care products; you may spot it on ingredient lists while perusing the hair-care aisle, as well. "In hair care, shea butter helps smooth rough, damaged cuticles and reduce breakage while also moisturizing the scalp," explains Dobos. However, it may be best for those with particularly dry hair, as well as hair that's thicker — butters and oils have a tendency to weigh down thinner hair. 

It's used in everything from soaps, body washes, and moisturizers, to shampoos and conditioners. No matter what you're looking for, if you want shea butter in it, you'll likely be able to find a product that fulfills that wish. 

An interesting thing to note while you're shopping? Dobos tells Allure that in its totally raw, pure form, shea butter is usually grayish in color and has an earthy smell, so it's unlikely you're getting this form of the substance in any products you're buying because it's unstable. "Most materials you find in cosmetics have been processed, purified, and treated in some way to improve its properties but so that it can also withstand transportation and manufacturing," she says.

What's the difference between shea butter and other butters?

Shea butter, cocoa butter, strawberry butter, peanut butter. Which is good for your skin and hair and which just sounds good? "Not all butters are created equal," explains Dobos. She says that while shea, cocoa, and mango butters, for example, are all naturally occurring, "some natural oils are just blended with hydrogenated vegetable oil or chemically modified to make them more solid in nature, similar to how margarine is made."

Dobos explains that none of the chemically-modified butters need to be avoided — in fact, they're all perfectly safe — but don't assume they're akin to shea butter just because they're similar in name. "It can be hard to separate marketing from real engagement in supply chain matters. Look for brands that partner with organizations like the Global Shea Alliance, which promotes sustainable practices and provides training to improve quality of shea harvesting while ensuring fair trade practices and equitable pay," she continues.

Who can use shea butter?

Whether or not you've already got the super-moisturizing, anti-inflammatory ingredient in your repertoire, you're in luck, because Dobos says that pretty much everyone can use it — that is, as long as it's not mixed in with anything else that you're going to have a reaction to. 

"Shea butter is great for just about all skin types, and when formulated with minimal ingredients and without fragrance, its anti-inflammatory properties may be helpful for those with sensitive skin," says Dobos.

And while it's technically a tree nut, there have been no medical studies that have found that those with tree nut allergies cannot use it (though if this is a concern to you, as with anything, talk to your doctor before trying it). 

King also gives those with all skin types the all-clear to try it. "It's moisturizing and has an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory effect, thus making it a desirable ingredient for skin and hair," she says. "It's pretty safe for all skin types." 

However, as always, if you have any concerns about adding a new ingredient to your skin- or hair-care regimen, talk to your dermatologist or health care provider first, just to be extra safe. "Any formulation with shea butter should be checked on a patient's skin if they have sensitivities or allergies," says Dr. Evans. "Anyone can have an allergy to topicals applied to the skin so it is important to test a small area of your arm for at least 72 to 96 hours to make sure you are not sensitized."

Original article: There's a Good Reason Shea Butter Seems to Be in Everything These Days